Ogres of the Moonlit Hunt – A Hobby Blog (7)

Note – this article is part of an ongoing series – previous articles can be found here.

After the whirlwind of building, basing, and painting that I completed throughout most of April, I ended the month with a bit of a break. That’s not to say that I didn’t make progress on my army, but the pace was significantly slowed down. Here’s where the army currently stands:

Army: Ogres

Points: 1995

Unit Count: 14

Unit Strength: 24

255, Siege Breaker Horde

Chalice of Wrath

245, Hunter Horde

Helm of Confidence

Crocodog

230, Hunter Horde

Crocodog

155, Red Goblin Sharpstick Horde

155, Red Goblin Sharpstick Horde

100, Red Goblin Scout Troop

100, Red Goblin Scout Troop

100, Red Goblin Scout Troop

100, Red Goblin Scout Troop

65, Red Goblin Blaster

65, Red Goblin Blaster

170, Ogre Warlord

Mead of Madness

Crocodog

145, Kuzlo & Madfall

110, Boomer Sergeant

Inspiring Talisman

Before I could continue, I needed to replace my paintbrushes. For ethical reasons, I choose to use synthetic brushes. These can work just as well as natural brushes, but they don’t last as long. You can and should clean your brushes (both natural and synthetic) after each painting session (or intermittently during long painting sessions), as that can seriously extend their lifespan. Like most gamers, I use “The Masters” Brush Cleaner and Preserver. It’s a very cheap purchase that will last you a long time.

Over the years I have experimented with different brands of synthetic brushes. There are several good options, but my brush of choice has got to be the Blick Master Synthetic Kolinsky. These brushes aren’t cheap, but they are high quality and, with proper care, will maintain a solid tip. The Winsor & Newton University series is a less expensive option that also performs well. My go-to sizes are 4 and 2 for base coats and washes, and 1 and 0 for highlighting and detail work.

I had a few days remaining in the Counter Charge Spring Painting Challenge and a brand new set of brushes, so I decided to have some fun and paint something for the Hero category. I took to my hobby room and found a truly beautiful Dragon Slayer model from Games Workshop that I built years ago but never got around to painting. Clearly, the time had come!

The statue had a noticeable gap which required some green stuff, but otherwise the model went together cleanly.

It has been a while since I painted a model to a high level, and I was excited to give it a try. I am not competent in blending or non-metallic metal, which are generally considered requirements for competition-level painting. But, I do have a solid understanding of color theory and brush control, so I can put together a fairly nice miniature.

Basing and Base Coats

I drybrushed the stone and picked out some details with gold. I went with green gems to provide a nice contrast to the orange mohawk and beard.
I like to apply all of the base coats at the same time, as it helps me to visualize how the finished model will look.

The Mohawk and Beard

I love, love, love painting Dwarfs in general, but Slayers specifically. The orange is a lot of fun paint. After the base coat, I applied a wash, then layered on three consecutive highlights. The final step was a yellow glaze which softens the transition between layers and gives it a nice warm glow.

The Skin

I followed a similar process with the skin. After applying a wash, I layered on three consecutive highlights. I then applied a purple glaze to add more depth and soften the transition between layers. I added a final highlight after the glaze and was very selective to only hit the raised spots.
I’m especially pleased with how the highlighting on the right elbow turned out.

The Pants

The pants were washed black and then layered to transition from deep turquoise to light blue. I did not use a glaze on the pants, and as a result, the highlights are more harsh.

Finishing Touches

The other parts of the model painted up quickly after those three main sections. The eyes came out fairly well, but it bothers me that the left eye is slightly larger than the right. I added some blood splatter onto the axes. I mixed Blood for the Blood God with a little bit of dark brown for the first application, then used straight Blood for the Blood God on the second application. The result adds a little more depth and is how I wish I had applied the blood effects on my Forces of Nature/Abyss models.

Finally, I trimmed the base with black, added some static grass and purple flowers to contrast with the orange and green in the miniature. It’s not the best model I’ve ever painted, and there are some areas I could have done better, but overall I’m proud of the result. Sometimes it’s just good to know you’ve still got the ability to paint a miniature to a high level.

I’ll be back next week with progress on the actual Ogre army. I’ve started working on Kuzlo and Madfall. I’m using the new GW Loonboss on Giant Cave Squig to represent them. Just a little bit so far, but they’ll be finished for the next blog post!

I really like everything about this miniature.
The Squig is connected to the base via one mushroom. It’s a bit wobbly but seems structurally sound.

About Greg

Greg is an avid Kings of War hobbyist, gamer, and podcast host from the Northeastern United States. On -/28 he'll be providing you with a range of different articles, mostly focused on the hobby and narrative sides of Kings of War.

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